SERGENT

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1   - RICORDANDO BANGALORE  (Sergent, left sector)  

Difficulty: 6a+  

Development: 180 ms. 

Material: friends, nuts, about ten express sets 

This route of plate is completely bolted. Difficulties are found in the first two lenghts.The belly of the second pitch, that

requires three A0 passages on bolts, can be avoided easily on the left (5c).

2  - CROLLO DELL'IMPERO NERO (Sergent, left sector) 

Difficulty: 6b+ (5c obligatory) 

Development: 150 ms. 

Material: two series of friends, nuts, about ten express sets 

Varied route, without nails. The first lenght will be appreciated by climbers fond of  hard courses. 

In the second lenght, it is necessary to pay attention to some unstable rocks. The third lenght requires again a lot of strength, and somewhere is difficult to protect. The route continues along a chimney  to go up on the Franco-Italian Plates.

3   - MIROIR DOC (Sergent, left sector) 

Development: 110 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6c (6a/AE obligatory) 

Equipment: some nuts, about twenty express sets 

It's a beautiful route that ascends one of the most beautiful plates of the OrcoValley. 

It begins with chimney (max 4+) without protections where it is possible to insert some nuts.  

A beam (max 4+) follows  toward left, at the base of the plate protected with three bolts and a piton , until a pine.

Then a plate with continuous difficulty, where the closeness of  bolts allows to climb either in free than in artificial. 

After the second lenght on plate, you can continue on the route of the Franco-Italian plates (max 5+).  

4  - LEGOLAND (Sergent, left sector) 

Difficulty: 6b first pitch - 7b+/8a roof 

Development: 40 ms. 

Material: two series of friends, nuts, about ten express sets 

Part of the first pitch is nailed; the roof  isn't protected. The route continues on a very beautiful crack. In the second lenght we find a seven meters roof, crossed by a crack.

5     -  ORCO VERDE   (Sergent, left sector)

Difficulty: 6c 

Development: 30 ms. 

Material:  nuts, friends small size ,about ten express sets 

5 A  - APPARIZIONE DEL CRISTO VERDE (Sergent, central sector) 

Difficulty: 6b (6a obligatory) 

Development: 330 ms. 

Material: some nuts, about ten express sets 

Beautiful route of plate, equipped by about twenty bolts. Difficulty isn't very high, but there can be some danger in case of fall.

6   - VIA DELLE PLACCHE   (Sergent, central sector)

Development: 280 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 5+ 

Equipment: stoppers,express sets

7  - DELIRIO DELLA SOLITUDINE (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 40 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6c+ 

Equipment: express sets

Bolts equipped route on plate.  

8   - DIEDRO DEL MISTERO (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 55 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a+ (5/A1 obligatory) 

Equipment: a series of friends, a series of stoppers, about ten express sets 

It's one of the first routes opened to the Sergent. The first lenght isn't particularly difficult. 

A bolt protects a delicate passage on the second lenght.  

Finally you find a dihedral, protected by a piton that you can integrate with some friends (mean measures), avoiding to

stop in order not exhaust youself. At the exit of the dihedral, a small roof is the hardest passage in the route.

9  - MANOVRE ORCHESTRALI NELL'OSCURITA' (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 40 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 7a 

Equipment: express sets 

Route on plate bolts equipped.

10  - BATTESIMO DEL FUOCO (Sergent, central sector) 

Difficulty: 7a+ (6b obligatory) 

Development: 215 m. 

Material: some friends, a dozen of express sets 

Beautiful route of sustained and continuous difficulty, entirely bolted.

Caution; where difficulties decrease, the bolts are rarer.

The route begins with a difficult wall , then continues on a crack up to the first belay.

After cracks and smooth vertical plates, a final swelling with a difficult exit leads to the second belay.

Crossing a plate on the right, you arrive to the third belay, under a roof.

Get through the roof on the right on blades, then turn left where you find the fourth belay.

Get over a little crack ; the fifth belay is reached on the right above a ledge.

Continue on the smooth wall up to the ledge , then for a ramp and a small dihedral you arrive to the

sixth belay.

10 A  - INCASTRO AMARO (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 20 ms. 

Maximum difficulty:7a 

Equipment: friends, express sets 

Roof with crack without protections in place.

11  - PAPERINIK COLPISCE ANCORA (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 30 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6b+ 

Equipment: express sets 

Route  equipped to bolts, on a beautiful plate with a small roof.

12  - DANZA IN TRANCE (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 25 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a 

Equipment: express sets 

Bolts equipped route on plate. 

13  - NICCHIA DELLE TORTURE (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 60 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6b 

Equipment: friends, express sets 

Route of crack with a place where it is difficult to find the equilibrium . 

14  - CANNABIS (Sergent, central sector)                                                                                         

Development: 180 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 7b (5b/A2 obligatory) 

Equipment: a series of nuts, friends, some nails and about ten express sets 

Route not excessively difficult if climbed in artificial; it becomes ABO inf if climbed in free, because it

requires nuts and hob-nails protections. However is climbed, it is a very beautiful route, with lines of crack

that excite fingers.

14 A  - CAMINO BERNARDI (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 30 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a+ 

Equipment: nuts, express sets 

Dihedral  to climb in opposition. The route, that constitutes an alternative to the last lenght of the Cannabis, is protected by rare hob-nails.

15  - INCASTROMANIA (Sergent, settore centrale) 

Development: 25 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a 

Equipment: double friends 2 and 2 1/2 , express sets 

Beautiful unprotect crack, not excessively difficult. Bolts at the belay. 

16  - FRAGILITA' CEREBRALE (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 270 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6b/A4 

Equipment: a series of stoppers, friends, cliffhangers, material for artificial climbing according to the will of climbers, express sets, stirrups 

Beautiful artificial route less difficult and surer of the near  "Supersonic"; it's partially equipped with some bolts and some pitons. The first climbers reached the top using traditional materials and a pair of cliffhangers only. 

17  - FESSURA DELLA DISPERAZIONE (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 90 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a+ (6a obligatory) 

Equipment: a series of maxi friends, about ten express sets 

Not often repeated for it's dangerous in case of fall, has been provided recently of bolted belays. The sloping crack, requires  high self-control of the climber. This route, characterized by the impossibility to protect, is also a challenge for the experienced climbers

18  - SUPERSONIC (Sergent, central sector) 

Development: 250 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 5Vc/A4  

Equipment: a series of nuts, RPs, 5 rurps, 8 peckers, 5kbs, 8 Las (petite), two series of hook, 10 heads, 2 series of camelot up to 2, a series of Tcu, 3 rivets hanger, express sets, stirrups  

Beautiful artificial route in Californian style; difficult and dangerous. It's equipped of some bolts on which it's better not trust on. It is considered one of the more involvig artificial routes of the valley; the complete repetition requires more days.

19  - L'EROE DEI DUE MONDI (Sergent, right side of the central sector) 

Development: 25 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6c+ 

Equipment: express sets 

Route equipped with bolts; it starts with a wall and continues following a crack high on the meadow.

20  - GLI ANGELI DELLA MORTE (Sergent, right side of the central sector) 

Difficulty: 7c 

Development: 70 ms. 

Material: express sets 

The route is entirely bolted. The first lenght is constituted by a crack, the second from a wall to nicks.

21  - CINQUETREDICI (Sergent, right side of the central sector) 

Difficulty: 7b 

Development: 25 ms. 

Material: express sets 

Variation  of  "Ve la do io l' America"; a difficult continuous initial line of 10 meters (7b). 

The route is bolted.

22  - VE LA DO IO L'AMERICA (Sergent, right side of the central sector)

Difficulty: 7b 

Development: 25 ms. 

Material: express sets 

High difficulty plate climbing. Nailed by bolts.

23  - IL SIGNORE NERO (Sergent, right side of the central sector) 

Difficulty: 6a+ 

Development: 30 ms. 

Material: friends, nuts, express sets 

Route of dihedral and unbolted crack.

24  - IL SENSO DELLA VITA (Sergent, right side of the central sector) 

Difficulty: 7a 

Development: 30 ms. 

Material: express sets

Bolts equipped route. Beautiful technique climbing on an edge of  hacks

25  - LOCATELLI (Sergent, right sector) 

Development: 200 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6a 

Equipment: nuts, express sets 

The first lenght goes up along a dihedral, the second is developed on an easy plate with cracks and  nicks. After crossing a small terrace, the route continues along a dihedral of friable rock for then it

turns left on a ramp covered by a slooping roof  to go  finally, with the following lenght, on a beautiful small terrace after  passing  through a narrow hole. From the small terrace you continue along the plate crossed by a dihedral, then you reach for plate the last belay (Grassi variant). The Motti variant, beautiful but with clammy joints, avoids the hole passing outside it and it continue along the wall on the left of the chimney . To descent you reach the Grassi variation with a small crossing. 

26  - ELISIR D'INCASTRO (Sergent, right sector)                                                                                     

Difficulty: 6b+ 

Development: 30+25 ms. 

Material: a series of friends, nuts, about ten express sets 

Beautiful  unbolted crack, with a small final roof.

27  - L'ULTIMA FOLLIA DI SIR BIS (Sergent, right sector) 

Development: 270 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6c (6a obligatory) 

Equipment: a complete series of friends up to the greatest, a series of nuts, about ten express sets 

It's a varied beautiful route, but it doesn't offer the typical exposure that gives fame to the Sergent routes. The first lenght is rather sustained and continuous, then the route becomes more varied with some beautiful lines of  cracks. Then continue on a 10 meters difficult adrenalinic beam (5) without any protection. However, either the first lenghts or the last ones, can be combined with other routes of the sector (Nautilus, Ulisse, Locatelli, Elisir d'Incastro)

28  - NAUTILUS (Sergent, right sector) 

Development: almost 300 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 5c (5/A1obbligatorio) 

Equipment: a series of friends, a series of nuts, about ten express sets 

The first part of the route is a characteristic wide chimney; crosses a ledge,  continues along a series of small dihedrals and cracks up to the last part of the route that crosses an easy tilted plate with small ledges.

29  - MARY POPPINS (Sergent, right sector) 

Difficulty: 5 - 

Development: 25 ms. 

Material: friends or nuts, express sets 

Unprotected route. Short and easy, it is also proper to learn the technique to joint.