CAPORAL

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9 : ITACA NEL SOLE + TEMPI MODERNI  

Development: 200 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 7b+ \ A2 (obligatory 5 \ A2) 

Equipment: friends, nuts, express sets, some pitons if you salt the " mirror " in artificial. 

It is  the most classical and famous combination of the Caporal. The first lenght begins in common with "Tempi Moderni "  then it continues until the first small terrace on the wall at right, characteristic and suggestive. Some bolts protects the way, but it is better to integrate the protections  with nuts and friends. From the belay, continue on a plate crossed by blades and cracks. After the second belay, there is the " Mirror ", a vertical plate crossed by thin cracks in which some pitons are found. Where the last crack dies, some bolts allow an easy slope of the last line of wall; after crossing on the left a small ledge, rise again toward right to reach the belay on the huge terrace. From here the route continues along "Tempi Moderni"; turn to the left, along the edge or following the central crack, then passing toward left from a lot of dihedral , you  reaches the fourth belay, not visible from the lower part. The climbing continues again on dihedrals, first toward right then again toward left, up to reach the fifth belay. Crossing the brief cracked plate you reach the beginning of a sloping dihedral, protected by pitons. Get over the dihedral, cross the plate toward right and, as soon as possible, go to the left where, on the border of the grassy ledge, the sixth belay is found. Crossing the plate horizontally for about twenty meters, the descent belay is reached. 

12 : SOLE NASCENTE  

Development: 200 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6b \ A2+ (5c obligatory) 

Equipment: micronuts, friends, about ten express sets, some knife blade in the case that the line of artificial was unriveted. 

It's one of the most famous routes of the Caporal. It is almost entirely nailed, part with pressure nails and part with traditional hob-nails and copper heads. The first lenght follows a crack, that coasts the artificial line. The second lenght  crosses a difficult plate in two pitchs (6a). The route continues along a series of dihedrals up to the fourth belay. The fifth lenght follows a crack followed by a plate of 5b.

A + 9 + D : ORECCHIO DEL PACHIDERMA + ITACA +  RATTLE SNAKE   

Development:180 ms. 

Maximum difficulty: 6b+ (6b/AE obligatory) 

Equipment: nuts, friends, a dozen of express sets 

The first lenght crosses the "Via dei Camini", on the left of the plate of  "Tapis Roulant". After some meters on the crack to the left of the chimney, cross on the right a break of the rock and climb the following chimney up to the exit.

Continue on the crack of the "Orecchio del Pachiderma" up to its end, reaching  the belay in common with "Itaca". Continue for a length along the "Mirror" of "Itaca" up to the ledge. Climb the crack along the wall to the left of the lenght, then continue along the dihedral on the right that emerges on another ledge. Climb along the dihedral and then along the chimney, until you meet a horizontal crack where the fifth belay is placed. Climb on some blocks, then go back to the thin chimney to reach the last ledge. Belay on bolts for rappel.